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Marion County Courthouse 'virtually identical' to others


Monday, June 30, 2008

JEFFERSON — In a city known for its history, the Marion County Courthouse dominates downtown Jefferson.

The three-story courthouse was completed in 1913, designed by architect Elmer George Withers of Fort Worth. Sammy DeSpain, chairwoman of the Marion County Historical Commission, said Withers also designed the courthouses of Stonewall, Jones, Armstrong and Roberts counties. DeSpain said the Marion and Roberts counties courthouses are "virtually identical."

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"It fits in well with our city," DeSpain said.

Susan Gammage, project reviewer for the Texas Historical Commission's Courthouse Preservation Program, said the courthouse is faithful to the "Texas Renaissance" or "classic revival" style of architecture, with large columned entrance porticos and "perfectly symmetrical" design. She said the building is reminiscent of Greek temples and Italian Renaissance buildings often mimicked in the design of public buildings.

Although the courthouse is the county's second one, county business was not always done inside a county-constructed building.

The county was founded in 1860. At first, county leaders met in a building named Birgess Hall. The county government also met in a plantation home and the Perry Building before the county voted to construct a courthouse in 1867. DeSpain said the locations of the Birgess Hall and Perry Building are unknown.

The county collected taxes toward a new courthouse for six years, then hired an architect for $200 to design plans for the county's first courthouse. It was built near a plantation outside of Jefferson in 1874. DeSpain said defective lumber caused the roof to leak directly above a judge's bench. Contractors would not repair the leak, and county commissioners withheld payment.

County residents complained the courthouse was too far from downtown Jefferson, and the commissioners moved out of the courthouse in 1875. That building later was used as a school for many years before burning in the 1930s. The commissioners rented a building for county business until constructing the current courthouse for $41,000 in 1913.

Marion County Clerk Betty Smith has worked in the courthouse for 28 years. She said the courthouse adds to the historical feel of Jefferson, and she thinks the building fits in well with other old buildings in the area.

Despite the courthouse's charm, Smith said she would not be opposed to working in a large, modern building.

"We definitely need more room," Smith said, adding that the courthouse is running out of space for books and the neighboring courthouse annex is almost full.

The county in 2007 applied for a state grant for restoration of the courthouse. She said the county did not get the grant and will have to wait five years to apply again.

Even with the cramped feel, Smith said she enjoys her job.

"I like working here," Smith said. "I like the work that we do."

The courthouse remains a hub for activity in Jefferson, and DeSpain said it would continue to benefit the city for the foreseeable future.

"It's a focal point for tourists," DeSpain said.

Marion County Courthouse timeline

1860: Marion County was founded.

1867: County voters approved increased taxes to construct a courthouse.

1874: After six years of collecting money and one year of construction, the first courthouse was built near a plantation.

1876: The county government vacated the courthouse because of its distance from downtown Jefferson.

1911: County commissioners approved the construction of a new courthouse.

1912: Current courthouse built in downtown Jefferson.

1921: The original courthouse is converted into a school.

1937: The original courthouse burns.

1971: The Marion County Courthouse was added to the National Register of Historic Places.

Source: Marion County Historical Commission and Texas Historical Commission

Marion County historical markers

Marion County has more than 100 historical markers. They include:

Austin Street Mercantile

Location: 100 block of West Austin Street, Jefferson, across from the courthouse

Description: The mercantile is typical of the city's heyday as the greatest inland port in Southwest. The building was erected before 1866 and houses offices, a grocery store, saloon and drugstore. A famous owner was Sallie Harrison, who was given the building in 1882 on her marriage to C. A. Culberson, who later became governor and a U.S. senator.

House of the Seasons

Location: 409 S. Alley St., Jefferson

Description: Built in 1872 for Benjamin Epperson, the home is an example of the transition period between Greek revival and Victorian styles of architecture. It is named from its cupola with stained-glass windows that create an illusion of the seasons of the year. Epperson, a confidant of Sam Houston, was a lawyer, political leader and entrepreneur. When he built the house, he was one of the wealthiest men in the state and a major influence in Texas politics.

First Methodist Church

Location: Henderson and Market streets, Jefferson

Description: The original log church was built in 1844. The log church was replaced by a brick building in 1860. The bell of the church was cast from 1,500 Mexican silver dollars.

Jefferson Lodge Building

Location: 61 Dallas St., Jefferson

Description: Built in the late 1850s, the building housed the Jefferson Masonic Lodge. A number of businesses were located there during the Civil War, and later it was used by the Knights and Ladies of Honor of Myrtle and the Knights of Honor of Jefferson. Exhibiting elements of the Italianate style, this is the last remaining example of the commercial-row structures which served Jefferson's Dallas Street wharf front during its heydey as an inland port.

Mims Chapel Methodist Church and Cemetery

Location: FM 792, 20 miles west of Jefferson

Description: Organized by pioneer- era settlers before the Civil War, the first building was a log structure called the Rock Church. The name was changed to honor brothers John and Henry Mims, who helped secure the site for the congregation. A schoolhouse at the site was in use until about 1906. Graves in the cemetery date from the 1870s and include prominent community leaders.

Potter's Point

Location: FM 727 at Texas 49, four miles east of Smithland

Description: Robert Potter, a signer of the Texas Declaration of Independence and a chief author of the Republic of Texas Constitution, settled on Caddo Lake in 1837. Potter was elected to the Texas Senate in 1840. After the Texas Senate adjourned in 1842, Potter tried to arrest his political foe William Rose. On the night of March 1, 1842, Rose led armed men to Potter's home. At dawn, Potter jumped into the lake to swim for help, but he was shot to death. Potter is buried in Austin.

Sterne Fountain

Location: Austin and Vale streets, Jefferson

Description: The fountain was donated to the city by the children of Jacob and Ernestine Sterne in 1913. The Sternes settled in Jefferson before the Civil War. Their early management of the post office and their involvement in civic and cultural activities reflected the influence Jewish families had on the development of Jefferson. The fountain was cast by the J.L. Mott Foundry of New York and features a statue of Hebe, the Greek goddess of youth.

Trammel's Trace

Location: East side of U.S. 59, one mile south of Jefferson

Description: Traces began as foot paths used by the Indians to mark their trails through wilderness areas. They later were used by surveyors in mapping early land grants. In 1824, Nicholas Trammel, a government scout, began traveling the trace that now bears his name. Trammel's Trace was, for many years, an important route of immigration into Texas. About 180 miles long, it began at Fulton, Ark., and continued to Nacogdoches. Trammel's Trace entered Marion County on its northern boundary and left the county about 3.5 miles south of Jefferson.

Confederate Civil War Meat Packing Plant

Location: Walnut and Polk streets, Jefferson

Description: The meat plant of J. B. Dunn dressed, packed and shipped beef, pork and mutton to the Confederate army. The plant, founded in 1861, was well-located on the Cypress Bayou shipping route, with cattle in trailing distance in East and North Texas. Herds were bought at $20 to $40 a head. The greater portion of cattle went out of Texas on hoof to be served as fresh meat after being slaughtered in the army camp. So much beef, pork, mutton, grain, sugar, salt, peas, beans, flour and corn meal was shipped away that Texas became known as the breadbasket of the Confederacy.

The Magnolias

Location: Broadway and Friou streets, Jefferson

Description: The home was built in 1867 by Lucy Ann, wife of Dan Alley, the donor of half of Jefferson's townsite. The house has handmade columns, massive hewn sills and wide pine board floors. The 1881 Club, the pioneer unit in Texas State Federation of Women's Clubs, was organized at the home.

Source: Texas Historical Commission

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