HENDERSON — During the oil boom of the 1930s, Rusk County's courthouse was a lively spot as landowners and "wildcatters" — risk-taking drillers and investors — staked their claims in the oil-rich county.
"It was said back then everyone in Henderson had a checkbook in one hand, and a map in the other," said Rusk County Depot Museum Director Susan Weaver. "The oil boom really put this county on the map and made a lot of people rich."
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Kevin Green/News-Journal Photo | Rusk County has conducted business in five courthouses since 1843. The present-day courthouse was built in 1929, and features elements of art moderne architecture, such as the even windows, straight lines and marble slab wainscoting, a Texas Historical Commission official says.
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Henderson was quickly transformed from a sleepy farming community into a roaring commercial center as new homes, industry and businesses flourished, with the courthouse at the center of it all.
"Rusk County had three courthouses before the current courthouse was constructed," Weaver said. "It became a place not only where people took care of business, it was a place to socialize as well."
Weaver said one of the courthouse's most notable visitors was native Alabamian Columbus Marion "Dad" Joiner.
Joiner, a "wildcat dreamer" according to Weaver, believed there was "black gold" under the grounds of East Texas and was willing to do anything to get it.
"Joiner would look in the obit section for recent widows and get them to sponsor his drilling ventures," Weaver said. "But to continue financing the projects he would oversell the shares to his investors. Lots of people filed lawsuits against him in that courthouse."
After two failed attempts to find oil, Joiner's Daisy Bradford No. 3 — named for the landowner he leased the land from — struck oil, Weaver said. Two other wells within the same field also struck "Texas Tea," marking the boundaries of the largest area of oil deposits in East Texas.
H.L. Hunt, founder of Dallas-based Hunt Oil, eventually bought Joiner's interest in the wells, making Hunt millions.
Joiner didn't get rich.
"He was a really bad businessman," Weaver said. "But he won't soon be forgotten in this county."
The courthouse's architecture remains intact and rich, said Susan Gammage with the Texas Historical Commission and project reviewer for the Texas Historic Courthouse Preservation program.
"The Rusk County's courthouse has a Texas Renaissance style with a splash of art moderne," Gammage said. "It's still decorative like its sister art deco, but the design is more simplified."
She said the county courthouse's square symmetry and its large brick base make it more art moderne than art deco.
"Art moderne architecture began in the late '20s and early '30s," she said. "When you look at the Rusk County Courthouse, you'll see the windows are even at each length, and even though there are no columns on the courthouse there are decorative straight lines on the courthouse .... It's a very beautiful building."
Gammage said the marble slab wainscot that lines the courthouse's hallway walls and its steel window awnings are part of the structure's art moderne appeal.
"The light fixtures, which are made of brass and blue stained glass, are just stunning," she said. "These things definitely make it a nice building."
Carolyn Walters, administrative assistant to Rusk County Judge Sandra Hodges, couldn't agree more. She said the detail given to certain aspects of the building make it a nice place to visit and work.
"The tiles on this floor were all hand laid, and the light fixtures in the stairwells are gorgeous," she said as she pointed to the tiny tiles on the floor. "There are a lot of things that are very neat about this old courthouse."
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Rusk courthouse timeline
1843: Rusk County's first commissioners met under a tree in southeastern Henderson near present-day Ragley Street. They later decided to build a small courthouse with hewn logs. It was used for seven years. The location is unknown.
May 11, 1844: Commissioners approved the construction of a new courthouse.
Dec. 27, 1845: Commissioners agree to alter the town square to allow placement of the courthouse at its center.
1849: Commissioners approved a $3,000 bid for a new courthouse.
1850: The county's second courthouse was constructed.
Aug. 5, 1860: A fire burned much of Henderson during the "Texas Troubles" where dry, summer conditions caused fires that burned many Texas cities, including Dallas. The Rusk County Courthouse caught fire, but the blaze was extinguished before it destroyed the building.
March 6, 1878: The Rusk County Courthouse burned down.
March 30, 1878: Commissioners approved the design for the third courthouse submitted by noted French-born architect R.E. Ruffini of Austin. The total cost of the new courthouse was $146,149.50.
April 13, 1928: The Ruffini courthouse was demolished after the county decided it was too small.
March 1929: Current courthouse built one block from the downtown Henderson square.
Source: Rusk County Library, Texas Historical Commission
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Rusk County Historical Markers
Rusk County has more than 200 historical markers. They include:
New London School Cenotaph
Location: New London, Texas 42 across from West Rusk High School
This memorial to the victims of the March 18, 1937, New London School explosion was erected in 1939.
The explosion destroyed the New London Junior-Senior High School, killing an estimated 296 students and teachers. More people died from injuries they received that day, bringing the final death count to 311. The explosion was blamed on a natural gas leak beneath the school building. Within weeks of the disaster, the state Legislature passed a law requiring an odor to be added to natural gas, which is odorless and undetectable.
Lou Della Crim No. 1
Location: Laird Hill, Rusk County Road 1114
This well discovered oil on Dec. 28, 1930, and was named Lou Della Crim No. 1 for J. Malcolm Crim's mother Lou Della Crim. Its discovery caused the population of Kilgore to grow from 700 to 10,000 in three days and initially produced 20,000 barrels per day. It was plugged in 1961.
Merritt Building
Location: Henderson, 100 E. Main St.
One of the first lots occupied after the town of Henderson was founded in 1848, this site has been a cornerstone in the city's downtown development. Jesse F. Merritt bought the lot in 1883 and had his brick building constructed for his Sunny South Saloon.
Henderson Depot
Location: Henderson, 514 N. High St.
On June 1, 1877, the first train of the Henderson and Overton Branch Railroad arrived at the depot on Mill Street. The station became a community gathering place and shipping center serving the International & Great Northern and Missouri-Pacific lines. Rail traffic declined, and Missouri-Pacific donated the building to the Rusk County Library. It was moved to the High Street site in 1977.
Richardson-Lowe House
Location: Laneville, Glenfawn Road off FM 225
Constructed during the 1850s, the residence displays the classical facade and central hallway that are typical of the Greek revival style. Handmade bricks for the foundation and fireplaces were fired at a kiln on the property. The structure was first occupied by the family of Dr. Peterson T. Richardson, a pioneer physician and farmer.
Monte Verdi Plantation
Location: Rusk County Road 4233 near the Glenfawn area
The Monte Verdi Plantation is a large, southern Greek architecture-style plantation home that was owned by Julien Sidney Devereux (1805-56), a justice of the peace, county commissioner and Texas legislator. Built on 10,000 acres, most of Rusk, Cherokee and Nacogdoches counties are visible from its upstairs porch. It was operational during part of the Civil War.
Judge William Wright Morris Historical Marker
Location: Henderson, Old City Cemetery at Fordall and Van Buren streets
Born in Halifax County, N.C., Morris moved with his family from Coosa County, Ala., in 1840 to Rusk County. He taught school, studied law and was elected district judge in 1854, and served as Texas legislator. He also helped promote the first railroad in East Texas. Morris County was named for him in 1875.
George W. Burton Historical Marker
Location: Henderson, FM 13 at the Blackjack Cemetery
A native of South Carolina and a Confederate veteran, George W. Burton migrated to Rusk County in 1880. He served in the Texas House of Representatives from 1915 to 1921. During his three legislative terms, he participated in the impeachment of Gov. James Ferguson, mobilization for World War I and the creation of the state highway department.
Mattie Trammel Schoolhouse
Location: Henderson, 600 N. High St.
This house was built in 1892 by Charles M. Thompson and his wife, May Agatha Trammell, for May's mother, Martha "Mattie" Gibson Trammell, a certified teacher. Mattie taught young men and women the rudiments of etiquette at the location until 1910.
Dr. William M. Ross House
Location: Mount Enterprise, Rusk CR 3198
This home was built in 1845 for Dr. William Ross, the first sheriff of Rusk County, a member of the Texas Legislature, surveyor and later a Confederate soldier. Constructed of hand-planed wood, the home had no window glass until 1850. Most furniture came from an unknown Mount Enterprise factory.
Source: Texas Historical Commission